Road Trip through the Swedish Countryside in a VW Beetle
It was 12:40 in the morning. The old and reliable SJ electric train approached quietly into the station. We were heading north. From Ljusdal to Älvsbyn and back again. A round trip journey of over 1300 km. Taking a slow rolling sleeping car train overnight and driving back down would take three days. We were traveling to purchase a car, sight unseen for some friends in Germany. We would see the car for the first time having been picked up at the train station by the seller. Not the ideal position to be bargaining from considering the requirement to return home. From what we had seen online, the 1973 1303S Super Beetle in question had a vibrant fresh orange paint that was recently done. The original wheels and tires were replaced by more attractive larger ATS rims with white wall tires. The chrome trim was refreshed and the interior was in excellent condition. The 1600 cc air-cooled engine was supposedly in good condition and overall we were told to expect no issues with our journey home. Regardless, we were boarding the train heavily loaded with as many tools as we could reasonably carry and were planning to purchase another ticket home should the seller attempt any shenanigans or tomfoolery. The Swedish road trip promised to be an incredible adventure, so we were crossing our fingers that we would be able to drive back home and experience the countryside.
The train’s accommodations were surprisingly comfortable. While each sleeping quarters possessed triple bunk beds, we purchased all three. So we folded the second level bed and as a result, we significantly increased our available space. The bedding was surprisingly good quality as well. The space, while small, felt more like a nice micro hotel. Furthermore, the shower was spotlessly clean and both nicer and hotter than the shower back home. Ride quality was relatively smooth. The electric train was so quiet that without inertia you wouldn’t know you had left the station. We were able to fall asleep peacefully and awoke 600 km closer to our meeting point with destiny… or at least the awaiting Beetle. The only complaint personally, was the food quality available during breakfast. Julia enjoyed hers, but I regretted my selection. Regardless, the overall northward trip was a wonderful experience and above expectation.
Well rested and adequately fed, we departed the electric train bright and early around 9 AM. Stefan, the seller, arrived promptly to pick us up and drive us to his property. Upon arrival there, once again expectations were different than reality. Spread across both sides of the road going deep into the woods, Stefan had over 100 vehicles. From a rally ready Mk 1 VW Golf to Scania commercial vehicles, his collection was varied and vast. Aside from the cars themselves, Stefan collected parts and memorabilia as well. His whole garage exterior was adorned with hundreds of hubcaps. A complete BMW V12 drivetrain from the mid-nineties sat upon a water tank begging to be used in a ridiculous swap. Very tempting. Multiple barns held the cleanest cars. Beautiful all original MGs, VWs and Alfas were tucked away hoping to see the road again. Despite my usual frustration with the automotive “collector” (see synonym: Hoarder), Stefan is actively maintaining and working on the vehicles he possesses. Cars come and go, always leaving better than when they were purchased.
Now came the time to inspect the Beetle. After Stefan drove it down to his front door, we were able to get a clear look. Thankfully, the paint was fresh, the chrome was clean, and the engine did in fact run well. The clutch was a bit long in the tooth and the brakes definitely would require some light maintenance back home but overall and beyond all odds, the deal bore fruit and Stefan invited us into his surprisingly beautiful home for fika (coffee and snacks of the sweet variety) while we handled the paperwork. While chatting, Stefan told us about a gasoline museum that was nearby. We were invited to join him in going to see it. Deciding to leave the Beetle behind, we jumped into Stefan’s heavily modified Volvo 444. The original anemic 1.4 I4 engine was replaced with a modern Audi turbo 4 cylinder. We took to the empty pristine roads and headed off to see this hidden treasure.
Ignoring the massive distance we would have to drive to return home, the three of us headed off on a tangent to see what was described as a gasoline museum. Stefan attempted to call the owner of the facility to open it up for us but he was out of town. Regardless, the exterior was an exhibit in and of itself. Upon arrival, I felt as if we had stepped into a concept art piece for a Fallout video game. A line of vintage cars valiantly struggling to shrug off the unstoppable forces of nature greeted us. A gen-one VW Bus had been at war with mother nature for so long that a tree was growing through the sun roof. While the cars were reduced to relics, it was still extremely pleasing aesthetically. Some of the cars had faired their silent battles better than others and I was especially drawn to an Opel Kapitän with a particularly pretty patina. Classic gas pumps sat between the cars and memorabilia adorned the walls. Massive automotive signage clad the museum proper. Along the side of the closed museum is a replica 1950s gas station complete with a period correct interior. A 1960s Scania gasoline truck guards the station diligently. An old yellow Willys Jeep had become a flowerbed for different plant life around the corner.
Alas, it was time to return to our Beetle and the journey southward. Did I say southward? I meant even farther north. Apparently one of largest river rapids in Europe was roughly 38 Km from our starting point. Known as Storforsen, the rapids flow hardest at the middle of summer at a rate of around 870 m3/s (meters cubed per second). The rapids are a popular tourist attraction so bridges, campsites, and firepits have been subtly added for day campers. The powerful rapids are flanked by breathtaking scenery and small rivers branch off the side in all directions. Water features like this in Sweden are one of the natural treasures of the country. Hydro power is used for a significant portion of the countries electricity. Despite Storforsen’s potential for huge power production, the government protected the region and prevented the rapids and other areas from being dammed and used for man. We spent a few hours admiring the beauty and power of the massive river before acknowledging the fact that we would in fact need to start heading home sooner or later. The rapids and the surrounding protected park are huge and we wish we had more time to explore the trails and the other waterfalls in the area.
Julia drove the first leg of the journey while I enjoyed the scenery from the passenger side. The interior of the beetle was in excellent condition. The heating system, which utilizes the radiating heat from the exhaust pipes to fill the car with warm air was unclogged and functioned perfectly. The system is simple and amusing because the faster you go, the warmer the car’s interior will get. The only adjustment is how open the vents are instead of how warm you’d like it to be. Annoyingly, the Beetle’s larger and fancier wheels were not balanced correctly and feedback on the steering wheel became a slight distraction between 80 and 100 Km per hour which wouldn’t be a problem if we were in a more modern car on the E4 (main highway). It was a problem however, as we were taking the E45 which has a speed limit averaging around 90 km. The feedback became tiresome. Julia didn’t seem to mind too much and kept the car at a steady and fair pace. While I will not admit to wrong doing, I chose to avoid the wobbly speed and I think you can guess which side of the problematic speed range I chose to drive. (Hint: I was not going over 800 km at less thank 70Km/h). While passing through a small town, fate challenged our road trip to a mandatory brake test when a young boy rode out into the street on his bicycle. Thankfully, Julia was able to stop the Beetle in time despite a significant pause between slamming the brake pedal and any inclination of deceleration.
The problems the Beetle had were minor and wouldn’t take us long to improve once we had returned to our shop. Overall, the Beetle was in great condition for the price and the vibrant paint color garnished many enthusiastic smiles from people around us. The 50 horsepower 1600 cc air-cooled 4 cylinder engines are one of the most ingenious and simple power plants ever created. Driving the Beetle hard generates a unique mix of exhaust and engine noise that will make any driver smile. The four speed manual gearbox has a great feel to it and it is an absolute treat making the long length throws between first to second, and third to fourth gear. Because of the Beetles light weight, even 50 horsepower is enough to have a lot of fun. “Fast car slow, slow car fast” theory is quickly apparent while diving the short wheel base car into turns with gusto.
Because of our worthy detours, we did not get as far as we had hoped. We were both exhausted as the sun began to set and decided to hunt for accommodations for the night in the small town of Sorsele. Despite the lack of ground covered, we were extremely happy with the decision to stop and not continue in to the night for two reasons. The first being the Beetles lack of strong headlights on the backroads of Sweden’s vast forest land. The Beetle wasn’t the problem here. Almost every car in this region is equipped with either a light bar on the roof or multiple pods along the front grille. Everyone drives with their brights on until another car approaches. Auxiliary lights are nearly a mandatory in the winter months when the sun is up for a scant few hours each day. In the wilderness, animals are everywhere and moose, reindeer, deer, and even bears routinely are struck by automobiles. The second reason we were glad to stop was the cabin grounds we had stumbled into were excellent. By the time we took our trip, the vacationing season had already come to a close. As a result, we were the only two guests in the facility. Deciding to go all out, we got a full sized unit with kitchen and bathroom, forgoing the need for utilizing the common rooms. After a delicious home cooked split pea soup dinner we took to our beds and prepared for the long day ahead.
We awoke the next morning eager to begin the second leg of our journey. Then we got out of bed and some of that well rested enthusiasm disappeared, unlike our breath in the frigid cold outside. Overnight, ice and frost had enveloped the green and yellow fields and forests resulting in a beautiful yet treacherous beginning to day two. Bravely, we struggled onward and sat down for a full breakfast and warm shower before departing. Ice had frozen thickly onto the front windscreen resulting in a scavenging hunt for something to scrape it off. Once again, we were thankful for the effects of thermal conversion as our beetle’s very effectively air cooled engine turned gasoline into kinetic force. Resulting in piping hot exhaust warming the air and forcing desperately needed heat unto our feet and faces. Soon our jackets were thrown into the backseat because the heat was getting intense, but the air was too cold to open a window. It was pretty hard but we heroically persevered.
The countryside was once again absolutely breathtaking. The roaring rivers had turned into peaceful reflective lakes. Pristine red asphalt Swedish roads meandered around, in between, or over the many waterways of the region resulting in one of the prettiest drives I have ever experience in my lifetime. While the larger animals didn’t come near the road during our trip, we saw a few foxes and a bunch of rich colored red squirrels. The E45 route we took was ridiculously empty. If you were taking this journey without a passenger to talk to, you might have a transcendentalist experience. The road felt alien in this otherwise untouched wilderness and the absolute absence of any kind of traffic results in a sense of blissful loneliness you have to embrace to enjoy the experience completely.
We stopped for a break a few hours into the trip in a small town. Stretching my legs, I walked toward a railroad and came across an interesting diesel electric locomotive standing to with no crew aboard. A stationary old SJ steam 0-4-0 locomotive adorned with festive string lights stood in front of a small train station. You get a sense that the Swedes embrace their history. Protecting as much of their old faithful equipment as possible instead of scrapping them in the pursuit of a better profit margin. It’s nice to see so much equipment treated this way.
In an effort to find conten…a memorable trip, we spent a bit of time searching our phones for exciting things to do along day two of the journey. We found quite a few options to choose from to bring enjoyment to our audien… ourselves. Some of the potential options included a husky farm where they raise sled dogs. A moose habitat with a few born in captivity, therefore friendly to humans. We could have gone ice skating on one of the largest lakes in Sweden. There were multiple cultural festivals along our route. We could check out a pretty comprehensive automotive museum as well. Or even visit a glass blowing factory. Unfortunately, this trip occurred directly after the summer vacation period of June to August and before the winter weather kicked in completely. As a result; the moose, ice lakes and huskies weren’t cold enough and the summer festivals weren’t hot enough. Furthermore the museums and tours were all done because no one was there to visit anymore… except us. Unfortunately, we were left with only the never ending beauty of the Swedish forests and rivers and non existent traffic to keep our souls happy. Rough stuff.
What we did find however, came by chance. After we had stopped hunting for things to do, as all proper road trip stops should. It was roughly around three in the afternoon when I drove us through Östersund and by a Saab Viggen fixed in the air and an old military truck with a large sign for a museum called Teknikland. Built around what used to be a military installation during World War Two, Teknikland is a comprehensive technology and military museum built with children, parents, and the inner child in mind. Keeping with the theme of poor timing, Teknikland also was closed. But one of the employees allowed us to look around everywhere except inside the buildings and the facility was littered with interesting and unique equipment not utilized anywhere outside of Sweden. Three Cold War Viggens were emplaced around the property. A fully prepped hanger with a two seat jet trainer parked inside was just off the main road. Various tracked combat vehicles rested in a permanent lager standing guard over the memory of the Russian threat. Sweden’s military equipment is fascinating because of their independence from NATO, despite their inclusion in the EU. Most western militaries design equipment that follows a multinational doctrine and utilizes a shared design philosophy and ammunition compatibility. As a result Sweden’s equipment stands apart in design, innovation, and function when compared to its contemporaries. Multiple artillery pieces, ground defense turrets, and anti aircraft guns line the roads and create a tactile experience when you sit behind them.
With the sun setting being us and a large distance still to go, we decided to leave the military playground and return to the wide open roads. A quick gas stop was required and we took the time to top up on oil and air pressure in the tires. The increased air pressure resulted in the vibration range to increase from a manageable 70-90 to a increasingly frustrating 85-105. For the next few hours we enjoyed listening to Mike Rowe’s podcasts and drove on into the ever darkening night. Soon we began to see the familiar sights of our local area and realized our journey was quickly coming to an end.
The Beetle was a plucky performer for the trip. Never coughing, stalling, or giving any inclination that we weren’t going to be making it home in time for a late dinner. The trip was a wonderful experience. Over the long journey, the subtle changes of the environment were truly spectacular to witness. Up in the north, the color changes of the fall were already taking place. The bright green forests had already started their shifts to yellows and reds. The temperature changes resulted in us experiencing snow, ice, and rain but nothing approaching the dangerous conditions winter can bring about. As we pulled into our home in Hälsingland, a breathtaking night sky greeted us. When the weather is clear, looking up into the night feels like how a snowman in a snow globe may see the world. Stars from horizon to horizon create the visual effect of curvature. The milky way was perfectly clear and despite our exhaustion, I walked to the adjacent field and craned my neck up to the stars and thanked the universe for the incredible experience and an incredible opportunity to appreciate the world’s endless beauty from the inside of one of the most successful cars ever to be built by man, the humble VW Beetle.
