In Defiance of Entropy: The Incredible work of the Järnvägsmuseet - Sweden's Rail Museum
You can find them resting exposed to the elements above and behind the local fishing store in Delsbo, Sweden. Their bright yellow and orange paint schemes have become muted with age and abused by graffiti. Half of their windows are gone, boards and trash bags in their place. The unrestored rälsbussar (railbuses) of the out of service Dellenbanan railway have been left without maintenance to face the intense weather of the Swedish Hälsingland. Built in the 1940s and 1950s, the X17 and Y6 railbuses and the X10 commuter engines left to rust on the rails were a melancholic sight to see. Walking between them made me wonder why some vehicles are restored and others are left to crumble into dirt. Of course, the answer comes down to simple numbers. There were too many to save them all. If every '59 Cadillac was protected and restored they wouldn’t have the same appeal. Rarity is intrinsic to worth. For old things to be culturally important, not everyone can have access to them. It’s a catch 22.
Seeing the decaying commuters permanently left to rust amongst overgrown foliage left me curious if there were any organizations for train preservation. As it turns out, there was. Since 1915, what is now simply called the Järnvägsmuseet (Railway Museum) has operated in locations across Sweden. Today, they are located in a medium sized Swedish city named Gävle. The museum has two locations. There is an expansive train yard that was originally built in 1904 and another large location that is currently under renovation. Both locations are reached by rail from the Gävle train station. Poetically, the short railways are travelled by another X-17 Diesel rälsbuss. Only unlike the decrepit pair in Delsbo, the museum’s X-17 is gleaming, bright, and proud. Her interior kept pristine and original. Even the “Smoking OK” signs still adorn the walls. One preserved and one abandoned, a stark contrast.
Over the last weekend, Blacktop Ranger was granted a behind the scenes look into the well maintained and impressive variety of locomotive history housed in the hall. To get to the museum in the right mindset, Julia and I decided on a train only strategy. We would take a staple of modern Swedish regional transit to reach Gävle, the Regina. First put into service at the start of the 21st century, the Reginas are electric multi unit trains used by multiple rail providers. The Regina we were riding was very clean with no graffiti or carvings on the tables. The experience was nearly seamless except for a slight delay a few kilometers from our destination in Gävle. Due to a technical error, we were two minutes late to the station which gave us just enough time to watch the bright orange X-17 rälsbuss depart in the opposite direction. A quick one hour walkthrough of the center of Gävle filled our time. Returning to the station, Julia and I had a short wait until the X-17 glided into the station. Her rounded box design in stark contrast to the modern tilting high speed trains sharing the station. Taking a seat up by the conductor, we were surprised when the destination was only a few minutes away. We could have easily walked there instead. Oops.
Having disembarked, we were greeted by three of the gentlemen who are responsible for the museum, Marko Kattilakoski, Lennart Lundgren and Thomas Gustavsson. I’ve come to the hypothesis that volunteers and museum staff are some of the most charming people around and the individuals from Järnvägsmuseet were no exception. Marko was stuck behind the ticket booth, so we were placed in the knowledgable care of Lennart. Lennart has dedicated 20 years of his life to both the Järnvägsmuseet and his incredible pet project the DigitaltMuseum. Over 50,000 photographs in a simple to use database covering every aspect of Swedish rail history. His efforts are a gift to humanity and all photos are free to use.
We began our tour outside to capitalize on a dry spell in the weather. Despite the train hall being a massive 10,000 square meters, locomotives, parts, and train cars spill out of the museum from the front, the sides and the back. Around the end of the 20th century, the Swedish government released over 200 steam locomotives from their military reserves. Many were set to be scrapped, but the Järnvägsmuseet aimed to save as many as possible. As a result, a line of classical B and C class locomotives greet the museum patrons along the railway to the hall. After watching the X-17 depart once more, we continued our walk around the property. The building was beautifully made from brick in 1904 and performed a variety of functions until 1970 when Järnvägsmuseet officially made it their home.
Around the back of the museum tons of spare parts for various trains and carriages can be found. According to Lennart, despite SJ’s initial abandonment of many of the parts found here, SJ continues to buy the same parts from the museum when the need comes up. Now that is a winning business model. Before we entered the museum, Lennart pointed to the building he works in on the other side of the railroad track. His pet project to digitalize over 50,000 photographs so many years ago now occupies a multifloor building with cutting edge technology. His enthusiastic smile and twinkling eyes spoke in a language all three of us could understand. Triumph and dedication are a language that crosses every border.
Immediately upon entering the train hall, visitors are greeted by the Queen of Swedish steam locomotives. Built in March of 1914 by Nydquist & Holm, the F1200 was the first of eleven steam locomotives in its class. She would turn out to be both the largest Swedish locomotive as well as the most infamous. On the first of October in 1918, the F1200 was steaming along through the countryside with 170 passengers on board. She was hauling a ten car combination of passenger and freight. Somewhere around 7 am, the F1200 cruising at approximately 45 miles per hour (72 km/h) catastrophically derailed due to a landslide along the tracks. 42 passengers were killed with 41 injuries reported. The deadly accident is the worst rail disaster in Swedish history to this day. Incredibly, the F1200 would be repaired and returned to service in May 1919. The locomotive continued its service until 1937 when it was sold to Denmark. During World War Two, the F1200 was bombed by allied fighter aircraft but survived. In 1963, Sweden bought the locomotive back and it has been in the care of Järnvägsmuseet ever since.
F1200 accident scene Photo provided by DigitaltMuseum
Today the F1200 still is in running condition and is used for special occasions. What makes the F1200’s story even more important to the history of Swedish steam is that it was the largest steam locomotive to travel the country. The F1200 has a 4-6-2 wheel layout under the Whyte Notation (four leading wheels, six driving wheels, and two trailing wheels). Locomotives of this type are nearly globally known as a Pacific type. To put some numbers out there; the F1200 weighed 125 tons, produced 1250 horsepower, and could reach 56 miles per hour. She was used to haul both freight and passengers.
When compared to other countries, the Pacific locomotives are right in the middle of the age of steam. Locomotives would go on to become bigger and bigger. In addition, especially in long distance countries like the United States, locomotives would also become more and more specialized. The arguable pinnacle of passenger and freight locomotives were the Pennsylvania Railroad S1 and Union Pacific Big Boy, respectively. Compared to the Pacific's 4-6-2 layout, the S1’s 6-4-4-6 and the Big Boy’s 4-8-8-4 layouts are obscenely large. Performance of these machines is incredulous as well. The U.P. Big Boy was capable of hauling freight in a 650 car long train spanning 32800 feet (10 km) weighing 27,000 tons (the USS Enterprise, one of the most famous aircraft carriers during WW2 displaced 25,000 tons). Equally as impressive the S1 was capable of transporting passengers at speeds of over 130 mph (209 km/h). The S1 produced 7,200hp when hauling 1200 tons train at 100 mph (161 km/h).
Workers building the early electric rail system. Photo provided by DigitaltMuseum
So why didn’t Sweden ever build newer or more powerful engines? At Järnvägsmuseet, the answer was made apparent by Lennart. Unlike many other nations, Sweden was heavily dependent on foreign oil and coal. While Sweden lacked fossil fuels, the nation has an abundance of wide and powerful rivers. As a result, the government developed electric rail technology and hydropower plants much faster than other nations and by the mid 1930’s when other countries were still only developing the massive steam monsters like the U.P Big Boy or the Penn’s S1, nearly all of Sweden was unified under a connected electric rail service. An incredible feat. For over 100 years now, Sweden has been utilizing electric rail services while powerhouse countries like the United States still lack interstate electric railways. Because of Sweden’s early adoption of electric rail, there was never a need for development of bigger steam locomotives. Electric locomotives just like modern diesels could be easily utilized in connected form to haul the same amount of weight in a much more cost effective fashion.
Järnvägsmuseet is home to many pristine examples of significant electric locomotives. One of the most significant on display is the SJ P/ Pa 27. While her name is quite dull, the locomotive is rather exciting. Built in 1914, the engine was one of the first fully operational electric locomotives to be produced. The Pa 27 was capable of traveling at over 100 km/h with 200 tons of cargo in tow. This fully electric engine was hauling crucial iron ore over 60 miles per hour at a point in time when the Ford Model T still would be sold for another 15 years. The Pa 27 would become the proof of concept needed to encourage the Swedish government to electrify all of the country. Had the design been a failure, there is a reasonable chance Sweden would be a much different country than it is today.
Pa 27 on display. Photo provided by digitalTmuseum
Swedish electric locomotives would continue to improve on all fronts. A perfect example of the success of electric rail is the museum’s preserved Rc1 No.1007. Once again not the most exciting of names. Built in 1967, the Rc1 No.1007 is the first in its class. Over 360 locomotives would be built over 20 years. The Rc1s are still in use today. My personal favorite from the electrified locomotives at Järnvägsmuseet was the BJ 214. Built in 1940, she has been restored by the museum and now is operational. The bright red color scheme contrasts boldly with the SJ locomotives which have muted grey and blacks for the most part.
A train without rail cars would not be a train. So of course the museum had them in spades. From humble mail cars to proudly decorated royalty lounge cars. Every function and specialty is accounted for. The museum prides itself on covering the obscurities of the past.
One particular rail coach is especially interesting. In the Victorian era, a woman would be looked down upon for smoking in public. This unspoken expectation extended to the rail lines. For first class passengers, this just would not do. Specialized first class smoking cars were constructed such as the one on display from 1883. The first class coaches were built with three partitions for smokers, non smokers, and women. From one luxury to another, Lennart showed us the opulent and distinguished coaches used for royalty. In 1891, Queen Sofia had a sleeping car commissioned for her. According to the signage on hand, “The kings extra-marital habits are a known problem for Sofia ever since the first royal train is put into service”. Queen Sofia’s coach is an awkward yet beautiful compromise.
What sets the Järnvägsmuseet apart from other rail museums is something truly special. While other museums may have larger trains or fancier displays, the Swedish rail museum is considered one of, if not the best when it comes to restoration.
We had the distinct pleasure of getting an close-up look at the work in progress to restore a teak and birch restaurant dinning car from the the first half of the 20th century. The dinning car was found abandoned on the rails. A fire had destroyed the majority of its interior. Lennart suspects the cause of the fire came from vagabonding inhabitants lighting fires for warmth. It is hard to imagine the car ever was a burnt out husk when you look upon it today. Using period correct construction techniques and materials, the project is by far the most captivating aspect of our tour. Window fixtures and chairs surround the car as authentic wood stain seeps into them. The end result, a bespoke and breathtaking spectacle. The work has been handled almost completely in house. Volunteers of the museum sacrificing their time to bring life back to something deemed destroyed.
The dining car is only the latest of their incredible rescues. The museum is special in that the majority of their machines are fully functional. Every year different locomotives, some over 100 years old, still ride the rails in defiance of entropy and age. From the F1200 which had been crashed, sold, then bombed to the burnt out rail car turned masterpiece, the work the fine men and women of the Järnvägsmuseet are doing is worth notice and commendation. Without their work, many more historic engines and coaches would have ended up in disrepair and left to die like too many other savable machines
GALLERY
RC1 Photo from the DigitaltMuseum
